What a brilliant idea! A day to honor students, on which there is no school but rather parties in the park instead. Also happens to be the first day of spring. We watched La Bamba show off their famous drum talent at a concert, danced with some great Argentine girls among the crowd, and saw a huge joint float driving around to exploit the recent weed legalization. The press was chasing him around trying to get him off park property, it was a comical scene. There were also instant maté machines EVERYWHERE, serving hot water to thousands of porteños. Shows you how they value their maté:)
jueves, 1 de octubre de 2009
Día de los Estudiantes
What a brilliant idea! A day to honor students, on which there is no school but rather parties in the park instead. Also happens to be the first day of spring. We watched La Bamba show off their famous drum talent at a concert, danced with some great Argentine girls among the crowd, and saw a huge joint float driving around to exploit the recent weed legalization. The press was chasing him around trying to get him off park property, it was a comical scene. There were also instant maté machines EVERYWHERE, serving hot water to thousands of porteños. Shows you how they value their maté:)
Jujuy
Tilcara!
Las salinas: miles, pardon, KILOMETERS, of salt.
Purmamarca.
The most beautiful, scary, close storm of purple "relampagos" (lightning) i have ever seen.
Pacha Mama, where you offer the habits you want to break to Mama Earth.
Andrew's unmatched freetylin talent.
Arid air!
Morning sunrises. TONS of stars. missing Orion's belt:(
Coldest showers of my entire life.
Llama meat. Llama leg warmers. Llama sweaters. Llama cheese. Llamas.
And...a taxi driver who's the 14th child out of 17. WTF??! He was the most cheerful man i have ever met--and also swore he will have no more than 3 children himself haha.
Salsa
Ahh i am obsessed! With salsa. Salsa dancing. (Not the spicy sauce, obviously, because they literally don't even know what spice is down here.) The places turn into a boliche, a club, around 1am or so. I like to go to a lesson beforehand (yeah Anneke, my salsa compadre!) and then crash the boliche afterwards. The lessons definitely reach creeper status from a States' perspective, but the forwardness and touchiness are trademarks of the dance. We learn the passes speed-dating style, where we change partners every few minutes. Everyone has their own quirks and definitely smell--it's a workout haha. The salsa boliches are so legit--they're filled with serious masters who have probably been dancing since birth. It is the most liberating dance, slightly technical, but you can fake it pretty well when you're first starting if you're a girl and just follow the guy's marks. (Yes it's quite machisto, but really, what isn't here?) I've been learning a lot from the women here who just don't take any crap:) Luckily i have met a really non-creepy Argentine friend who knows his salsa and is a patient teacher. Thank youuuu, Matias.
miércoles, 23 de septiembre de 2009
Plan Techos!
How was i so lucky to trip over this? UBA (University of Buenos Aires) has a Facultad de Arquitectura, Diseño, y Urbanismo with a class dedicated to finding need-based architecture projects around the city. They're all fairly small projects--so i thought--to design and build homes, kitchens, clinics, etc. for people who don't mind our inexperience. The coordinators are this really cool architecture couple who check in on me (their poor little exchange student) every week. The class is an amazing machine of 11 projects going on at once. I am in one group who gets to travel up to San Martín, put myself in the shoes of yet another world only a few miles away, and build basic shelters for nine families up there. I said before that Argentina is chaotic, but after being in this class for a few weeks and seeing what we're supposedly going to get done before December, i think it's that they're just much less preoccupied with the useless logistics!! Code? Construction documents? Forget those. I have a measuring tape and two hands haha.
The first week we visited San Martín, a troop of locals welcomed us into their middle-class barrio. (If that was middle class, i cannot begin to imagine what the poor villas are like. These peoples' bathrooms were a stream running through their front yard.) A bubbly, enthusiastic, super-hospitable woman vested in a purple jumpsuit and many gold necklaces invited us to her table for tea and sweets to talk about the future of the neighborhood. Since her house was only two small rooms and there were at least 20 of us, we all quickly uprooted the tables and cloths to the alley right outside. It was the coolest teatime i've ever had. I was mostly--actually entirely--just listening. We spent an hour learning each others' names, another hour talking about the culture of the people, and while some group members explored the houses i got caught up talking to the woman and her best friend. Everything is SO RELAXED and yet SO PURPOSEFUL. Argentines are a people very intent on living the moment at hand, and seem not to worry about things more than about 30-seconds into the future. It really is a bizarre time-warp feeling--i'm always thinking about what we should be doing, and then have to think quickly and creatively to keep up with the intense spontaneity. I guess i'm learning pretty well, because when i saw something interesting or someone i wanted to talk to, i followed normal Argentine behavior and went to investigate. The group called me on a phone a few times to get me back haha. I guess i really am that annoying exchange student.
It was worth it, though, as one young guy invited my friend and i into his house that he had just built for his family. The walls were made of thin scraps of wood patched together, and had a membrane (tarp-like) roof. His kitchen, one bed, electricity wires all over the place, TV, fridge, wife, 2 kids, and everything else you need to live life were inside a room about as big as this bedroom i get to live in right now. We talked to them for a while. Their spirit was happy, the kids were gorgeous, and the guy seemed really proud to have built this himself. I was impressed, as it was pretty clear he invented all the construction techniques himself. He assured me it was just fine to take this photo (even though i still felt horribly exploitative for weeks.)

We have made a few more trips up to the barrio since, each time running our plans by the families with whom we're working. My friend Diego and i are building a roof, a third room, and tiling the bathroom of of Tuli's house. With $2000 pesos (about $500 US dollars), you can't do a whole lot. So we're thinking in stages, doing it step-by-step the Argentine way, and getting as far as we can. An example of some of the MAJOR things to keep in mind: make a space for neighbors to take maté together outside (OF COURSE), involve the family in everything so they're learning techniques as well as getting what they're looking for, and make it a house that lasts into the future (whether that means planning the stages wisely, orientating the rooms carefully so they use the sun's energy really well, building the grade up so it never floods again, or all of the above!).
This is so, so exciting for me. On the one hand, i'm stoked to give some unique skills i suddenly realized i've acquired over the past three years of school (it's suspiciously coincidental how these visions of sustainable architecture in Argentina and Oregon are merging, no?:)). And on the even bigger hand, i am floored at how much these people are giving back to me. There's a concept here that doesn't translate into English: it's called "solidaridad." It's the all-inclusive concept of volunteerism, that equally recognizes the giver and receiver. It describes how we're all benefiting equally from each other. This value is so central to the mindset here--people help each other out without considering the payback they'll receive, or without feeling validated by their "good deed." There is no better-off person in the equation. The needs of the receiver are never ever met from a sense of charity, but a sense of "i am contributing what i have to give because someone needs it, KNOWING automatically they have just as much to teach/give/contribute to me in SOME way. We help each other like one organism. That's just what we do." It's pretty amazing to see it in subconscious action in the rhythm of a society. And quite humbling to admit this is somehow a new concept.
Más y Menos
The concepts "more" or "less" are always in comparison to SOMETHING. Is this such a new concept??? I have been meditating on this for like three weeks now. Seems like a revelation, now that i'm seeing it play out in full force. Think about it:)
Franqueza, Viveza...
For the past 2 months (i've been here for TWO MONTHS??!) i have had eyes wide open in observation, shamefully a little judgment and comparison, and for the most part amazement. There's no describing what your brain and heart learn when you are actually swimming in another culture with a history, location, perspective, rhythm and soul all its own. As an outsider i at first was so preoccupied with finding my way home and staring at people to put my finger on the obvious differences. But after sitting with the confusion for quite a long time and looking back to the perspective from which i started, i really honestly and excitedly realize how a little Argentine is growing up in me! To put it some concrete analytical terms (if you can even begin to do that) the core Argentine values like frankness, spontaneity, warmth, street smarts, and trust account for the biggest differences between my birth culture and this one. As these make up the heart of what Argentines learn to be "givens," they can really easily be viewed as rude, immature, and downright mean from a U.S. point of view.
Franqueza (Frankness): one should feel free to express thoughts and opinions without self-censorship.
Negative perspective: Abrasive.
This makes soooo much more sense now when my host mom tells me i have the "brain of a little bird" when i don't wear socks or "it's my problem" when i decide not to buy a gym membership. Haha. And the interrupting, oh my gosh, i thought they were so rude to each other when even students would interrupt their professors. But it's almost like they expect it of one another, always welcoming a good fight.
Confianza (Trust & Closeness): Strong personal bonds in business and in the workplace are essential.
Negative: Biased and exclusive.
Everyone kisses each other on the cheek and talks about how each other's doing before any business starts. It's also not weird for teachers to have a coffee with their students.
Cariño (Warmth): Family and close friends are given utmost priority.
Negative: Clingy.
Viveza (Street-Smarts): High value is placed on financial savvy.
Negative: Swindlers.
No wonder i always felt like i was being tricked! Now instead of avoiding the salesmen i just meet them at their level.
Creatividad (Ingenuity & Spontaneity): Great pride is taken in the ability to react creatively in unexpected situations.
Negative: Disorganized and Unprepared.
Yesterday our prof was an hour late to class--we were expected to adjust and she walked as if nothing was weird. On our class trip last week, we spent a lot longer climbing a mountain than expected and were in the middle of nowhere with 60 starving kids and no food. So, the coordinators stopped at a gas station and bought a LOT of cookies to keep us full until our 5:00pm lunch. I see this on the colectivos (city buses) when they're speeding down the avenue with the doors wide open, in the nightlife when people stay out til 4:00 in the morning on a Tuesday because it's a nice night....Those are super slight examples but i'd say this is probably the most blatant value here--to me, everything seems like it's in chaos. But somehow everyone knows the rhythm of the chaos and manages to function anyway.
So....after knowing this is the mindset Argentines are born knowing as fact, IT EXPLAINS A LOT. Whether or not i adopt all the same values while here, at least i can have a love for how their brains were made rather than comparing how they're better or worse.
Franqueza (Frankness): one should feel free to express thoughts and opinions without self-censorship.
Negative perspective: Abrasive.
This makes soooo much more sense now when my host mom tells me i have the "brain of a little bird" when i don't wear socks or "it's my problem" when i decide not to buy a gym membership. Haha. And the interrupting, oh my gosh, i thought they were so rude to each other when even students would interrupt their professors. But it's almost like they expect it of one another, always welcoming a good fight.
Confianza (Trust & Closeness): Strong personal bonds in business and in the workplace are essential.
Negative: Biased and exclusive.
Everyone kisses each other on the cheek and talks about how each other's doing before any business starts. It's also not weird for teachers to have a coffee with their students.
Cariño (Warmth): Family and close friends are given utmost priority.
Negative: Clingy.
Viveza (Street-Smarts): High value is placed on financial savvy.
Negative: Swindlers.
No wonder i always felt like i was being tricked! Now instead of avoiding the salesmen i just meet them at their level.
Creatividad (Ingenuity & Spontaneity): Great pride is taken in the ability to react creatively in unexpected situations.
Negative: Disorganized and Unprepared.
Yesterday our prof was an hour late to class--we were expected to adjust and she walked as if nothing was weird. On our class trip last week, we spent a lot longer climbing a mountain than expected and were in the middle of nowhere with 60 starving kids and no food. So, the coordinators stopped at a gas station and bought a LOT of cookies to keep us full until our 5:00pm lunch. I see this on the colectivos (city buses) when they're speeding down the avenue with the doors wide open, in the nightlife when people stay out til 4:00 in the morning on a Tuesday because it's a nice night....Those are super slight examples but i'd say this is probably the most blatant value here--to me, everything seems like it's in chaos. But somehow everyone knows the rhythm of the chaos and manages to function anyway.
So....after knowing this is the mindset Argentines are born knowing as fact, IT EXPLAINS A LOT. Whether or not i adopt all the same values while here, at least i can have a love for how their brains were made rather than comparing how they're better or worse.
Idiomaticas
Some of my FAVORITES! We try to use these on a daily basis, haha. No doubt they'll come back with us to the U.S.:
"La noche está en pañales." - literally, "The night is in diapers," a.k.a. "It's only 3:00am, STOP whining and come out with us!!"
"Sacate las pilas." - "Take out your batteries," as in "CHILL OUT and slow down." The inverse is probably even more common: "Ponete las pilas!" - "Put in your batteries and let's GET GOING!"
"La noche está en pañales." - literally, "The night is in diapers," a.k.a. "It's only 3:00am, STOP whining and come out with us!!"
"Sacate las pilas." - "Take out your batteries," as in "CHILL OUT and slow down." The inverse is probably even more common: "Ponete las pilas!" - "Put in your batteries and let's GET GOING!"
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